Completed - Sasha Trousers by Closet Case Patterns



I have sewn many a pair of trouser-style pants, or muslins of trousers.  Despite what I consider success at fitting jeans patterns (Closet Case Ginger, Deer and Doe Safran), I’ve never been able to really adjust the fit of trousers to the point where I was really happy and I ended up with pants that I would actually wear on the regular.  I started to wonder if the issue wasn’t the difference between a fly-front jean and a side- or back-zip trouser that was somehow in play.  Maybe it’s real or maybe I just made it up, but when Closet Case released the front-fly Sasha trouser I picked up the pattern to see if I couldn’t get a fit I was happy with.

I cut these out after Thanksgiving (thick with sweet potatoes), and was in-between sizes so I sized up, given the wide range of stretch in stretch wovens. So I cut a 14 hip graded to a 10 waist (my Ginger jeans are a 12 hip graded to an 8 waist).  I wanted a sleek pant so I went with View B, no pockets.  My fabric was a nice stretch twill by '7 for All Mankind' that I bought from Califabrics.com.


These were really easy to assemble, and quick (especially if you make the version without welt pockets) and I basted the outside leg seams to check the fit. I ended up sewing the outer leg with a 3/4" seam allowance instead of 5/8". I also had to take a 1" wedge out of the center back even with grading sizes.  (And, I can't find my trouser hooks. They are somewhere in this apartment, so for now it just has the hidden button closure.)


I'm pretty happy with the result - I still may have some minor crotch issues? They seem more noticeable in photos then when I look in the mirror.  Maybe the "cameltoe adjustment".  I'm sorry if this just got too personal!  I don't think the crotch is too short, but I"m open to suggestions.




I also need to tweak the fit of the leg below the knee. I think I need to grade back down to an 8 below the hip. The legs seem a little too wide? I know it's a trouser not a skinny jean but the proportions seem just a little bit off.  I actually think I could have sewn my usual Closet Case sizing, which is a 12 graded to an 8, and will probably go with that next time.



Minor adjustments aside, these are definitely my most successful non-jean trousers to date.  I'm very excited that Papercut Patterns reissued their formerly-known-as Peter and the Wolf (side-zip) trousers as a fly-front Otsu jean. Next up on my pants making itinerary!

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