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Louis Antoinette Teddy HB bomber jacket - Metallic French Terry

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I have probably half a dozen bomber-style jacket patterns in my collection, none of which I'm crazy about.  I've made the Rigel bomber, but don't like how low the neckline is.  I don't know where (Instagram probably) but I saw this Teddy HB bomber by Louis Antoinette, a pattern company I was unfamiliar with. I liked the unique design lines and decided to give it a shot.
Based on the size chart I cut a size 40 and decided to dive in without a muslin.  The pattern is designed for wovens, but I had wanted to make a jacket with this Metallic Silver Laminated French Terry that I had bought from Mood:
The laminated surface removes most of the stretch, so it was more like a woven or stretch woven than a knit. It's crazy looking - Tim hates it.  The lining was a purple polyester I bought a while ago at Fabric Outlet SF.

The pattern instructions come in English and French. My version had Step 5 in French mixed in with the English instructions - so I flipped over the French …

Carhartt Canvas

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A version of this post originally appeared on the Cali & Co blog

I was beyond excited when I saw that Ron had listed Carhartt canvas in some 20 (20!!) colors on the Cali Fabrics site.  If you aren’t familiar with the brand, Carhartt is known for high-quality, premium-yet-affordable workwear in sturdy fabrics like denim and duck (aka, canvas). You may have seen their recent feature in Threads magazine, with a tutorial for the Detroit cuff. I knew this would be fantastic quality canvas and Cali Fabrics has it at a great price and it’s 69” wide!

So, the fabric: the description online is very accurate. It is a 12 oz. heavyweight but it has a softer hand than you would expect – it isn’t stiff.  I washed it in cold water and tumble dried on low – this fabric really responds to a hot steamy iron especially when it is just a bit damp.  I recommend serging or pinking the edges pre-wash because it will fray a bit. The color didn’t fade or bleed at all and was very saturated and…

Sew Over It Vintage Shirtdress

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Looking to make something transitional from winter (California winter) to spring, I decided to make the Sew Over It Vintage Shirtdress.  I recently made a button down shirt that I hated on myself, so a shirtdress isn't exactly setting myself up for success, is it? But  here we go!

I made the sleeved version, in a size 10.

The fabric I chose is a black and chartreuse printed cotton from Mood fabrics:

I'd describe it as a heavy-lightweight with a slightly stiff drape. It's heartier than typical shirting. It's a circuit board design, so a bit of novelty but in a chic colorway so it's not too juvenile (in my opinion). I bought 2 yards to make Tim a shirt, he didn't like it, so I bought an extra yard and decided I'd make a shirtdress, and that's how we got to this point.

The pattern is very well-drafted and quite simple to make. There are no darts, just pleats, 2 front and 2 back, on bodice and skirt.  There are no really tricky techniques, just a lot of ste…

Up Close with Knit Fabrics, Part II

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Welcome to the final (for now) edition of Up Close with Fabrics - Knits, Again.  I think this will be the last one for a while, at least until I diversify my stash a bit.  I know I haven't done any silk...but beyond that I'm a bit out of ideas.  But this will resume periodically when and if I discover some new textiles or if I get any requests.

Today I have four knits that are pretty different to the eye and hand, but turn out to be pretty similar in structure.
First up I have a light-medium weight polyester ITY jersey from Cali Fabrics:


Polyester fibers are fairly smooth, as we've seen before, compared to natural cotton or wool fibers.

Next up is a nylon lycra, a swimwear or activewear type of material also from Cali Fabrics:
It has the same general knit as the ITY, a 'braided' kind of pattern.
Moving on to a scuba knit, which Mood Fabrics calls a neoprene but isn't really.
It is a heavyweight polyester spandex, and also shows the 'braided' knit patte…