I Am Patterns Panoramix Pants

 I dusted off the old blog for a short write-up on the Panoramix Pants by I AM Patterns.

This is a fairly recent pattern release, described as ankle-length high-waisted tapered trousers.

Version A/B

Sizing: I purchased the PDF which has a size range of 34-52, corresponding to a 33-47” hip measurement.  My body measurements would put me at a size 42 grading to a size 46 hip but based on the finished measurements I cut a size 42 graded to a size 44 hip.  I really didn’t want to try and grade two sizes through that style of trouser, even though it’s how I grade my jeans.

Fabric: Recommended fabrics are lightweight denim, linen, wax, lightweight twill, lightweight gabardine, double gauze, lightweight jacquard, wool blends. I used some dark green wool suiting that has been in my stash for years. I wanted something with some drape for my first pair.

Construction: The instructions are well done. The construction is not complicated, and the instructions and diagram for the front drape make sense.  I sewed these after work in a few hours over a few evenings.  Some notes:

•         If you’re going to wear them cuffed, plan ahead and finish your seam allowances accordingly.  They are often styled cuffed in photos, and while you are instructed to finish your seams, how you do that might depend on whether those seams will be visible.
•         When you stitch down fold 1, you stitch in the crease you made with the iron.  The bobbin thread is the side that is visible when wearing the pants.  Perhaps this is obvious, but there’s some origami going on and I didn’t realize it. So make sure you tension is nice and your bobbin thread matches. I had black bobbin thread in because I was low on matching green thread, and even though the black blended into the wool I still ripped the stiches, flipped it over, and sewed on the reverse.
•         There are other methods to do the waistband/invisible zipper (I’m thinking of the Colette Ginger skirt, for one) but I didn’t hate the way it was presented here. I did stitch in the ditch for my waistband, even though the instructions said to topstitch. Based on the photos on the website I think they meant stitch in the ditch.
  

I did not put on the back pockets (options are patch or welt).  I kind of like the back simple. But I was trying them on and I kept wanting to put my hands in side pockets! I have a lot of pocket-less pants, but something about these had my hands looking for pockets. 

 

I’m surprisingly happy with the fit in the back. To me, the pattern piece looked like it was drafted for a flatter butt and I had concerns, but I was wrong.  Unless my butt got flatter when I wasn’t looking.

 

In the end, I decided to crop them instead of cuff them. So I trimmed 2” off the length and then a 2” hem.  Next time, I will shorten them when I cut them, so that the pleat at the ankle is narrower. Does that make sense? Since I just cut them off, the overlap at the hem is wider than it would be. It doesn’t affect the drape, so it’s not a huge deal.  

 I’m going to wear them with some kind of heel, a low bootie.  I’m showing them with a fitted Megan Nielsen Rowan tee and a Sew North Cedar cropped sweater (the Cedar doesn’t really go, but I'm just trying to think about what I might wear with these pants). For reference, I am 5’4” with a long torso.

You can see it pulls a little across the front where the drape is. When I'm standing perfectly still it's noticeable, but I don't think it's that bad. Next time I may interface both the waistband and the facing if I use a wool suiting, just to give everything a little more support.

I don't think I am onboard with the crotch if we're talking about the plain front style:

It looked questionable on the samples on the website and it doesn't look great here. I bought this pattern for the the version I made, I have no plans to make a plain pair so it doesn't matter to me but it looks like it needs some work, depending on the crotch!

Verdict: I like these! I don’t need 10 pair, but I might like a pair in black or charcoal for winter and I have a pretty aqua blue suiting in my stash that would make a nice pair for spring. When I said I was making these, someone commented that they were excited to see them on someone who wasn’t model-thin – to that end, I think that like most garments, it’s suitable different for shapes but you have to tweak it to your proportions.   Before I hemmed it, standing barefoot, it was a no.  Experimenting with the length and shoes made it work.  The size range is rather narrow, and I do fit within it, so I’m obviously not speaking for all sizes, just my personal experience with this pattern.

The front drape in motion

I hope this was was helpful if you decide to try this pattern! Happy Sewing.