I AM Merlin Coat

 Oh hello again...

Here I am with another post and it hasn't even been two years since my last one! I stopped posting because (a) I was unmotivated to spend more time sitting at a computer than I did at my job and (b) if I don't really have something to say, I can't be bothered.  Meaning, when I've made the same TNT pattern for the 6th time or it's just another pair or jeans or I don't have any commentary or experience that is unique to what's already out there - blog collects dust in the corner.  

It's been a while since I purchased multiple patterns from a new collection when they first came out and then sewed them soon after, which is why I thought some feedback on these I AM Patterns garments might be useful.  And, I love to make coats. So let's go!

Sizing: PDF pattern sizing range is 34-52.  I made a size 44 - my measurements put me at a 40-42 top and a 46 hip, so I split the difference. This was a mistake. It's a little too big on me, as we'll see.

I sewed the lining/facing first, and this was the moment I realized I should have gone down a size. 

Fabric: Recommended fabrics are medium to heavyweight wool coating. I used a tiger stripe wool coating from my stash, Kasha satin for the lining and Pro-Weft interfacing.

Construction Notes:

  • The pattern pieces do not ask you to cut interfacing for the front  or back facing, but I can't recall ever *not* interfacing a wool coat facing. So I interfaced it.
  • There is an error with the welt pocket instructions regarding RST when it should be WST - I have already received an email correction by the pattern company. It's probably obvious if you've made welt pockets before.
  • The welt pocket construction method was different that my previous experience. It turned out fine, but I was nervous. I'm always nervous about slashing thru my coat with an exacto knife!        

  • To help the lapel break, I understitched the facing seam allowance on the facing side below the break point and on the front side above the break point. Once I tried on the lining/facing, which I made first, and realized it was a little big on me I decided not to spend a lot of time with hand tailoring since it was going to end up oversized. I used the understitching method instead combined with a good press and my clapper.

  • I used a large sew-in snap instead of a button.
  • The instructions often have you pin several layers without basting first - the welt pockets, the collar/facing attachment, etc.  I would definitely sew on the collar before attaching the facing, there are a lot of layers there to sew in one go. 
  • The instructions are fine - I have made many coats. If you're an intermediate sewer you probably don't need to be told to clip into the neckline, or trim the bottom corner to turn it out to a nice point, or grade the seams - you just do it. I noticed the instructions are not explicit here, so heads up to beginners. It's just kind of "sew the facing, sew the bottom hem, pull it out thru the opening in the sleeve." 
  • There is minimal hand sewing. Just the sleeve hems to sleeve (and you could fully bag the lining if you're experienced in doing so) and the opening in the lining. 
    Minimal hand sewing required. 
The verdict: First, I could have gone down a size. It feels a little too big. However, most of my other coats are more close fitting in the arms/shoulders, and I can't squeeze dramatic sleeves or heavy layers or a blazer underneath. So it's useful to have a coat that I can wear with layers. I'm not mad about it.


I wish I'd remembered to interface my hems.  Again, not in the instructions for this coat but I've done it for others. I didn't even think of it until I pulled my Oslo coat out of the closet to wear one morning and suddenly I remembered the hems! 😬 I need a coat construction checklist. Oh well. 
I don't have any real criticisms - there isn't instruction for extensive tailoring, but that makes it more accessible for beginners, as does the relaxed fit. If you have made coats before, you'll probably recognize where you can go beyond the instructions, but that's true for many patterns. 

I like the cocoon shape, and the low snap/button location. It's something different. In spite of the oversized nature, I do like it a lot and will definitely wear it.  Tim said the low closure mad it look '80s and sent me this as proof:
I think he may be on to something.


Thanks for reading and happy coat making!





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