Completed: Goldstream Peacoat by Thread Theory Designs

The first project from my #MakeNine2018 plans is the Goldstream Peacoat by Thread Theory designs.  We were packing up to move from California to Oregon and it struck me: "Tim, do you have a winter coat?" Because I hadn't seen him wear one for six years, and he might be needing it! Since I love making coats I volunteered to make him a nice peacoat. 
He wanted a very dark charcoal, so I found a nice midweight wool (#316376) from Mood and Tim picked out a red plaid cotton blend lining (#316000) - if I was making a coat, he wanted a warm coat.  Black leather buttons, also from Mood and interfacing from Sew True Supply (aka the good shit).

I cut a size M based on his measurements and made a quick muslin.  The only alteration from the straight M was to move the shoulder point in 3/4" - he did not want shoulder pads, otherwise it probably wouldn't have needed any adjustment at all. I made the classic version, Tim wanted the epaulets, pockets, all of it.

This was my first time sewing a Thread Theory pattern, and I was very impressed. It's described as a "modern slim-fitting design with athletic sizing."  It was beautifully drafted with excellent instructions. I love how it has nice clear numbered instructions- as a compulsive to-do-list-maker, I love being able to check things off as I go. Also, you don't have to go in the exact order listed - for example, I wanted to make the lining first, to double check the fit. So I could sew that section, check it off, then go back to the beginning and go from there.


I really enjoyed making this, and I would definitely recommend this pattern.  Even if you've never made a men's coat, and you're nervous about it, I think the instructions and construction are straightforward enough for success.

I chose to attach the lining by hand sewing, even though you can certainly bag the lining if you'd like, although the instructions are given for hand sewing.  There wasn't a huge amount of hand sewing, I didn't mind it, and it actually turned out beautiful.
Interior pocket
I think this is the most well-constructed garment I've ever made. It's as close to perfection as I can get. My secret? My newfound unemployment! Hand sewing is great on a Thursday afternoon.  Honestly though, I did appreciate how it felt to take my time and not feel rushed because I only had some time on the weekend to sew.
The slip-stitched lining.

What else can I say about it? It's warm. The fabric was wonderful to work with. You may notice my buttonholes are vertical - my machine does NOT like to do buttonholes over any topography, such as a topstitched wool edge. ("But aren't many buttonholes near an edge?" you ask? YES!") So I've shed enough tears to know not to try and fuck up a perfectly wonderful coat by trying to force a buttonhole where my machine doesn't want to put it. So, vertical buttonholes.

The insides
This coat is good enough to wear inside out.!
Sleeve tab detail
But what does Tim think?
Popping his collar 






The catch-stitched hem


The red lining of the pocket peeks out a little. I tried to tuck it but it's persistent. But I don't hate it.


 He's really happy with. It's been cold and not super rainy lately, so I think he'll definitely get some wear out of it this season.
We're all big fans, even Ringo:

Ringo is exhausted by the amount of hand sewing I did on this day.
 So the first of my Make Nine is done, and super successful! I've set the bar to high for myself. It's only February, and it might be downhill from here😉

Thanks for reading. Happy sewing!



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