The first project from my #MakeNine2018 plans is the Goldstream Peacoat by Thread Theory designs. We were packing up to move from California to Oregon and it struck me: "Tim, do you have a winter coat?" Because I hadn't seen him wear one for six years, and he might be needing it! Since I love making coats I volunteered to make him a nice peacoat.
He wanted a very dark charcoal, so I found a nice midweight wool (#316376) from Mood and Tim picked out a red plaid cotton blend lining (#316000) - if I was making a coat, he wanted a warm coat. Black leather buttons, also from Mood and interfacing from Sew True Supply (aka the good shit).
I cut a size M based on his measurements and made a quick muslin. The only alteration from the straight M was to move the shoulder point in 3/4" - he did not want shoulder pads, otherwise it probably wouldn't have needed any adjustment at all. I made the classic version, Tim wanted the epaulets, pockets, all of it.
This was my first time sewing a Thread Theory pattern, and I was very impressed. It's described as a "modern slim-fitting design with athletic sizing." It was beautifully drafted with excellent instructions. I love how it has nice clear numbered instructions- as a compulsive to-do-list-maker, I love being able to check things off as I go. Also, you don't have to go in the exact order listed - for example, I wanted to make the lining first, to double check the fit. So I could sew that section, check it off, then go back to the beginning and go from there.
I really enjoyed making this, and I would definitely recommend this pattern. Even if you've never made a men's coat, and you're nervous about it, I think the instructions and construction are straightforward enough for success.
I chose to attach the lining by hand sewing, even though you can certainly bag the lining if you'd like, although the instructions are given for hand sewing. There wasn't a huge amount of hand sewing, I didn't mind it, and it actually turned out beautiful.
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| Interior pocket |
I think this is the most well-constructed garment I've ever made. It's as close to perfection as I can get. My secret? My newfound unemployment! Hand sewing is great on a Thursday afternoon. Honestly though, I did appreciate how it felt to take my time and not feel rushed because I only had some time on the weekend to sew.
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| The slip-stitched lining. |
What else can I say about it? It's warm. The fabric was wonderful to work with. You may notice my buttonholes are vertical - my machine does NOT like to do buttonholes over any topography, such as a topstitched wool edge. ("But aren't many buttonholes near an edge?" you ask? YES!") So I've shed enough tears to know not to try and fuck up a perfectly wonderful coat by trying to force a buttonhole where my machine doesn't want to put it. So, vertical buttonholes.
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| The insides |
This coat is good enough to wear inside out.!
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| Sleeve tab detail |
But what does Tim think?
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| Popping his collar |
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| The catch-stitched hem |
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| The red lining of the pocket peeks out a little. I tried to tuck it but it's persistent. But I don't hate it. |
He's really happy with. It's been cold and not super rainy lately, so I think he'll definitely get some wear out of it this season.
We're all big fans, even Ringo:
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| Ringo is exhausted by the amount of hand sewing I did on this day. |
So the first of my Make Nine is done, and super successful! I've set the bar to high for myself. It's only February, and it might be downhill from here😉
Thanks for reading. Happy sewing!
He wanted a very dark charcoal, so I found a nice midweight wool (#316376) from Mood and Tim picked out a red plaid cotton blend lining (#316000) - if I was making a coat, he wanted a warm coat. Black leather buttons, also from Mood and interfacing from Sew True Supply (aka the good shit).
