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Boss Blazer - Pagoda Shoulder Jasika!

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Looks like it’s time for what has become my annual blog post! I thought I’d share some details of my pagoda shoulder blazer.  A little history? Pierre Cardin is the inventor of the pagoda shoulder. The name refers to the cornices of Chinese towers. Cardin created new shoulder silhouette that dipped from the collar along the shoulder line, before rising again several inches from the edge. They became popular in styles for both men and women. Pierre Cardin himself was known for wearing the bold shoulders throughout the 1980s.   Pagoda shoulders later became a signature for Alexander McQueen, particularly in his menswear, but they were more subtle than the Cardin style.   Today the pagoda shoulder may be most commonly associated with Balmain, who often uses a highly exaggerated and sculptural version of the design.   Which brings us to my jacket – the fabric is Balmain deadstock from Selvedge and Bolts, so I thought I would do something with some Balmain flair. I started with the Jasika
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I AM Merlin Coat

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 Oh hello again... Here I am with another post and it hasn't even been two years since my last one! I stopped posting because (a) I was unmotivated to spend more time sitting at a computer than I did at my job and (b) if I don't really have something to say, I can't be bothered.  Meaning, when I've made the same TNT pattern for the 6th time or it's just another pair or jeans or I don't have any commentary or experience that is unique to what's already out there - blog collects dust in the corner.   It's been a while since I purchased multiple patterns from a new collection when they first came out and then sewed them soon after, which is why I thought some feedback on these I AM Patterns garments might be useful.  And, I love to make coats. So let's go! Sizing: PDF pattern sizing range is 34-52.  I made a size 44 - my measurements put me at a 40-42 top and a 46 hip, so I split the difference. This was a mistake. It's a little too big on me, as we
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I Am Patterns Panoramix Pants

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 I dusted off the old blog for a short write-up on the Panoramix Pants by I AM Patterns. This is a fairly recent pattern release, described as ankle-length high-waisted tapered trousers. Version A/B Sizing: I purchased the PDF which has a size range of 34-52, corresponding to a 33-47” hip measurement.   My body measurements would put me at a size 42 grading to a size 46 hip but based on the finished measurements I cut a size 42 graded to a size 44 hip.   I really didn’t want to try and grade two sizes through that style of trouser, even though it’s how I grade my jeans. Fabric: Recommended fabrics are lightweight denim, linen, wax, lightweight twill, lightweight gabardine, double gauze, lightweight jacquard, wool blends. I used some dark green wool suiting that has been in my stash for years. I wanted something with some drape for my first pair. Construction: The instructions are well done. The construction is not complicated, and the instructions and diagram for the front drape
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A Carhartt-inspired jacket : (modified) McCalls 7638

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We recently received a catalog in the mail that contained a selection of Carhartt jackets, among other items.  Tim liked the look of this one: a sort of classic, basic mens' work jacket: So of course he asked if I could make him one!  He has a couple of handmade coats (a faux shearling from a few years ago and a Goldstream peacoat I made in early 2018) but wanted something a little more casual for everyday - but also warm enough for Syracuse winters. I found my fabrics first: Carhartt Expedition canvas from The Rain Shed with a faux shearling lining (from my stash, originally from Mood Fabrics.) For extra warmth, I tried something new: interlining the shearling with Thinsulate! I ordered a swatch set from the Rain Shed and chose CS100. The website information claims that "the Polyolefin microfibers trap body head and keep you warm even in damp conditions because its fibers absorb less than 1% of their weight in water." OK then! I couldn't really find a
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