Vogue 8950 top

This top is very similar to Papercut Patterns' Ensis tee, which I liked very much, and though I am a big fan of Papercut, $25 for a long-sleeved tee pattern seemed a bit steep.  Seems like every pattern company has a version of this out now, so I bought the Vogue pattern for a few dollars.  Forgive me!

Semi-fitted, pullover tunic has yokes, side slits and stitched hems. Back is longer than front, wrong side shows
My fabrics were a black rayon-spandex jersey for the top and this very graphic rayon-acetate-lycra knit that I'd bought a while back from Gorgeous Fabrics:
 It's actually chartreuse and gray, but my black looked better against it than my gray knit. 

Vogue's sizing is maddening, and inconsistent, and it would apparently kill them to put finished garment measurements on a pattern. So I cut a 10 to start. I think I've worn anything from a 6 to a 14 in various Vogue patterns. Before I cut into my fabric I lopped about 3" off of the bottom of the pattern - it was much too long on me, almost a dress. It was entirely too much tunic!
from comedycentral.com
 But if you like tunic-length, then it comes as advertised on the illustration, which is quite long.

I also added a neck band - I hate finishing knit tops by just turning under the neckline. I just cut it and sewed it on flat, stretching to fit.  It's a very basic top to sew, no real issues other than I don't know why you would have to easestitch a sleeve head in a pattern for 2-way stretch knits.  Vogue!!! That's the beauty of stretch fabrics. So I just eased it in using the stretch.
Once I had the side seams pinned I realized I had to take in in, so I sewed it with a 1" seam allowance, so that means I took about 2" out of the size 10.  If you want it "semi-fitted", as it is described, I would go down about 2 sizes from your measurements. I also took another 3" off of the bottom. The results:

I get those pulling marks at the shoulders when I stand up straight, which is kind of how I stand. That's also why the black fabric doesn't line up in the front - good posture, and boobs.
It's still pretty relaxed fitting, especially around the waist.  And its not exactly a crop top, despite having taken over 6" off of the original pattern.
I laid out the fabric so that different parts of the design would be featured on the front and back.  Sometimes I have a plan before I start cutting.
My neck band. I HATE turned under necklines in knits.
Overall I'm happy with the result. Some of the changes I made had nothing to do with a problem with the pattern - like the length. I knew when I bought it that I didn't want a tunic. The sizing and the neckline finish is on Vogue though.

I don't know what I was thinking when I bought this green fabric, but I got a nice casual shirt out of it in the end. I need more long-sleeved tops, so I'm sure I'll make this pattern again.


  1. I love this fabric and the pattern placement you did. I Totally agree with you ....about the neckline and sleeve cap on knits. ! Great top and great review. It was very helpful and it looks great on you.


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