Up Close with Thread

The next installment of Sewing Science is Up Close with Thread! By request(s).  I tried to find a wide variety of threads in my stash to image.
First up is some Coats and Clark All Purpose Polyester Thread:
36x

101x

321x

3950x

Next is some cotton quilting thread that I use for basting and tailor's tacks  (I tried to image all of the threads at a similar series of magnifications to best show the similarities and differences).

36x

99x

309x

2580x

 The most obvious difference between the two is not only the thickness, which is visible to the naked eye, but the individual fibers themselves.  Natural fibers are not a smooth as synthetic fibers - the same is visible in fabrics as well (which I'll post eventually!).

Now let's take a look at polyester topstitching thread:
36x

101x

607x

4050x
Nothing too dramatic, similar to the others in terms of how the fibers are joined.
Lets look at these side by side so the difference between the natural and synthetic fibers really stands out:
(L-R): Polyester All-Purpose, Cotton Quilting, Polyester Topstitching
I had some polyester invisible thread in my sewing box, and was curious to see how it looked different than regular polyester thread:
34x

105x

384x

1640x
This is a monofilament thread, so it's a single strand as opposed to fibers that are bundled or braided together as we see in the traditional threads.

Last up is Maxi-Lock Stretch Serger Thread:
36x 
118x



371x

2640x
The stretch thread is also not wound or braided together - not shocking since it needs elasticity.

That's all for this week. Thanks for reading and I'll be back next Friday with an up-close look at some different woven fabrics.

Popular posts from this blog

A Carhartt-inspired jacket : (modified) McCalls 7638

Image
We recently received a catalog in the mail that contained a selection of Carhartt jackets, among other items.  Tim liked the look of this one: a sort of classic, basic mens' work jacket: So of course he asked if I could make him one!  He has a couple of handmade coats (a faux shearling from a few years ago and a Goldstream peacoat I made in early 2018) but wanted something a little more casual for everyday - but also warm enough for Syracuse winters. I found my fabrics first: Carhartt Expedition canvas from The Rain Shed with a faux shearling lining (from my stash, originally from Mood Fabrics.) For extra warmth, I tried something new: interlining the shearling with Thinsulate! I ordered a swatch set from the Rain Shed and chose CS100. The website information claims that "the Polyolefin microfibers trap body head and keep you warm even in damp conditions because its fibers absorb less than 1% of their weight in water." OK then! I couldn't really find a
Read more

Carhartt Canvas

Image
A version of this post originally appeared on the Cali & Co blog   I was beyond excited when I saw that Ron had listed Carhartt canvas in some 20 (20!!) colors on the Cali Fabrics site.  If you aren’t familiar with the brand, Carhartt is known for high-quality, premium-yet-affordable workwear in sturdy fabrics like denim and duck (aka, canvas). You may have seen their recent feature in Threads magazine, with a tutorial for the Detroit cuff. I knew this would be fantastic quality canvas and Cali Fabrics has it at a great price and it’s 69” wide! So, the fabric: the description online is very accurate. It is a 12 oz. heavyweight but it has a softer hand than you would expect – it isn’t stiff.  I washed it in cold water and tumble dried on low – this fabric really responds to a hot steamy iron especially when it is just a bit damp.  I recommend serging or pinking the edges pre-wash because it will fray a bit. The color didn’t fade or bleed at all and was very satur
Read more

Boss Blazer - Pagoda Shoulder Jasika!

Image
Looks like it’s time for what has become my annual blog post! I thought I’d share some details of my pagoda shoulder blazer.  A little history? Pierre Cardin is the inventor of the pagoda shoulder. The name refers to the cornices of Chinese towers. Cardin created new shoulder silhouette that dipped from the collar along the shoulder line, before rising again several inches from the edge. They became popular in styles for both men and women. Pierre Cardin himself was known for wearing the bold shoulders throughout the 1980s.   Pagoda shoulders later became a signature for Alexander McQueen, particularly in his menswear, but they were more subtle than the Cardin style.   Today the pagoda shoulder may be most commonly associated with Balmain, who often uses a highly exaggerated and sculptural version of the design.   Which brings us to my jacket – the fabric is Balmain deadstock from Selvedge and Bolts, so I thought I would do something with some Balmain flair. I started with the Jasika
Read more