This week's edition of Sewing Science we are Up Close with Wovens, Part II! I snipped a bunch of tiny samples from my swatch collection to see how some of these fabrics compare to one another.
Today we have denim, jacquard, and rayon.
Denim: This is a heavier weight, non-stretch denim from Cali Fabrics.
 |
| 31x. These fibers have a distinctive weave compared to a cotton canvas (see Wovens Part I). |
 |
| 74x |
 |
| 259x |
 |
| 1040x. I love the irregularity of natural fibers. |
Stretch Denim: This is a medium-weight stretch denim from Cali Fabrics.
 |
| Stretch Denim, far left |
 |
| 75x |
 |
| 167x |
 |
| 1200x |
There is no difference in the weave between the two, just the presence/absence of lycra.
Jacquard: This one was really cool. You can obviously see that this is going to be interesting, but I didn't realize how many different weaves were involved until I put it in the microscope.
 |
| Green and black jacquard, far left |
 |
| 25x |
 |
| 26x |
There are at least 5 different weave patterns involved here!
 |
| 40x |
 |
| 84x. This is one of the large green spots visible in the regular photograph rising high over the rest of the fibers |
 |
| 92x |
Rayon: This was another one of my favorites. Why does rayon have such a fabulous drape compared to other woven fabrics? It's all in the weave...
 |
| Challis (left, zebra) and Bemberg lining (right) |
Rayon Challis
 |
| 25x. Check out the stair-step (for lack of a better term) weave of the fibers. |
 |
| 76x. Quite different from anything we've seen so far. |
 |
| 191x. The reason for the beautiful draping properties of rayon challis! |
 |
| 778x |
 |
| 2740x |
Bemberg Rayon Lining
 |
| 25x |
 |
| 81x. This fabric also has a non-orthogonal weave or a bias weave or however you want to describe it. |
 |
| 510x |
 |
| 4110x. Smooth fibers. |
The bias weaves of the rayon make sense when you think of cutting a standard woven fabric on the bias to achieve a better drape - you're effectively rotating the original weave of the fibers 45 degrees such that it becomes like the natural weave of a rayon.
The images from today's post are some of my personal favorites, especially the jacquard and rayon. Until next week, when I will return with the 3rd and final installment of the Wovens series. Happy Sewing!
